Trailering

Before you start

The electrical connection is a standard single 7-Pin (12N).
There are nine slots for boats. Fours and long sections of eights must go on the top - there are three slots for these four/long eight sections. Those long sections of boats won't fit on middle or bottom racks.
When loading boats on top, get plenty of weight forward, so there is overhang over the towing car - this is better than having a lot of overhang at the back.
Eights with wing riggers struggle to easily fit on the bottom sides of our trailer, but they do fit in the middle slots easily (i.e., not on the sides).
Pull out the number bar at the back and clamp in position. Don't pull out too far or it might fall off.
Put the number plate in the holder. Use the zip ties attached to secure in place (one each side) or the number plate might fall out. Don't pull the zip ties too tight or the next driver won't be able to get their number plate in.
Keep the security wheel clamp on when left over night. This goes on the far back wheel - not the wheel closest to the hitch. Contact captains for key instructions.
Be very careful when driving the trailer back into the New CRA site - it is easy to clip the end of boats against the far left fence (at least two drivers have done this in the last few years).

Boat condition. Before derigging, check that your boat is in good condition. If you are travelling to a BR event, they will check your bow ball, hatch covers, heel ties, and the foot release straps. Check the riggers, gates, bushes, top nuts, bottom nuts, foot-stretcher attachments, adjuster channel strips, shoe attachments (the four nuts holding the shoe to the footplate) and rudder/fin.
Hatch covers. If a hatch cover is not tied on with a chord (or otherwise very securely fastened) then you will need to remove it and transport separately. If hatches are staying on the boat then make sure they are properly closed. If you know that hatches are prone to come loose, then stick on a square of duct tape to each hatch to secure them.
Seats. Use seat bungees to secure seats (if the slides have holes to enable this). Wrap the chord around an axel of the seat undercarriage. If you need to remove a seat, then unscrew the end stoppers to slide it off - do not bash the seat off as this can damage the undercarriage. If you take seats off, make sure they are numbered so that they can go back in the same position.
Footplates. Check that footplates and shoes are secure.
Nuts and bolts. After removing riggers, either put the nuts and bolts back on the boat, or put them in a zipped bag - there is no good third option! Take off anything else that might fall off. Tape any long cox box wiring to the hull.

Locate the hitch key before you start, and keep in a safe place.
Position the boats with some weight on the bottom racks if possible.
Unsplit fours and long sections of eights must go on the top of our trailer.
Avoid too much overhang at the back.
Have some weight on the tow bar.
Eights with wing riggers struggle to easily fit on the bottom sides of our trailer, but they do fit in the middle slots easily (i.e., not on the sides).
Take tools and spare nuts etc. with you. Take cox box equipment if needed.

If you don't know how to tie down a boat, then don't try to work it out yourself - get someone who knows to show you.
There are different ways to tie down a boat - see the video below for a good option.
Key points:
- Only use a pristine quality boat tie which is long enough.
- Don't let the buckle touch the hull when tightened. If possible, use the ties with the protective fabric behind the buckle.
- Use padding for the canvas of a small boat and don't overtighten.
- Make sure the buckle is showing so that it can be checked before moving off.

Consider weight limit for the towing car.
Trailer tires in good condition and inflated properly.
Boats properly positioned and tied down.
Trailer bed contents secure.
Reflective tape tied on the rear end sections.
Rear light bar positioned correctly (not too far out or it will fall off - if pushed in, make sure the wires are secure).
Number plate is correct for vehicle towing and the number plate is secure (needs to be inside the zip ties). Don't overtighten the zip ties.
Ensure there is a decent weight on the tow hitch (so there is a downward force on the tow hook when connected to the towing vehicle).
Tow bar connected correctly. Test by wheeling the jockey wheel back down - see that it begins to lift the car.
Jockey wheel fully wound in, retracted and locked in position. There is a notch to lock the wheel in place. Locking pin engaged.
Safety cord attached.
Lights check.
Hand brake off.

Tighten rigger nuts with two-finger-spanner tightness to get the right tension (i.e., a spanner held with thumb and two fingers). Tighten top nuts with three-finger-spanner tightness.
Check all the nuts and bolts on the boat, as anything could have come loose in transit. For extra diligence, check the tensions in the back stays.
If putting seats back on, unscrew the end stoppers of the slides - do not bash the seats on by force.
Don't lose the seat bungees - you will need those for the return trip.
If you are travelling to a BR event, they will check your bow ball, hatch covers and heel ties, and the foot release straps.

Pack the boat ties away properly and return all the seat bungees.
Lock the trailer hitch.
Put the security clamp on a back wheel of the trailer (not a front wheel of the trailer).

Page updated

Report abuse